The Somm Series Edition 8: Houston Barakat

Saint Peter, helmed by visionary Chef Josh Niland, stands as an icon of sustainable seafood dining in Sydney. Recently relocated to the historic Grand National Hotel in Paddington, the restaurant has garnered international acclaim for its pioneering “scale-to-tail” philosophy, utilizing every part of the fish to craft innovative dishes. This approach has propelled Saint Peter to the 66th spot on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants extended list for 2025 .

Saint Peter offers a refined nine-course tasting menu in the 40-seat dining room, as well as a delightful bar menu available in the walk-in 30-seat bar. The restaurant’s interior, designed by Studio Aquilo, blends natural materials with contemporary aesthetics, creating an atmosphere that complements the innovative cuisine.

We had the privilege of catching up with dear friend and exceptional Sommelier, Houston Barakat over in Sydney. Houston’s path through hospitality is as layered as the wines he loves! “My first job was fairly typical for people who’ve been in the industry a while — washing dishes,” he shares. From late nights in bars and nightclubs to running the floor, a pivotal chapter began when an opportunity arose to apprentice himself to Travis Howe, owner of Melbourne’s, Carlton Wine Room. Now, as Wine Director at Saint Peter, Houston brings a thoughtful, terroir-driven lens to a wine program that celebrates purity, place, and pairing.

Read on to learn more about Houston, his wine pairing philosophy and experiences in the industry.

Discover our full interview with Houston Barakat.

Let’s start at the beginning — what drew you into the world of wine, and how did your journey lead you to Saint Peter?

My first job is fairly typical for people who have been in hospitality for a while – washing dishes! I started washing dishes in an aged care home after school, and occasionally worked the early morning shift in a bakery before school. I worked nightclub & cocktail bar shifts while I was studying, then moved into working the floor, managing bars and, when I realised I knew nothing about wine, apprenticed myself to Travis Howe, owner of the Carlton Wine Room in Melbourne before becoming the Wine Director at Saint Peter in Paddington, Sydney. From restaurants to wine bars, aged care homes to high-end hotels, cocktail bars to nightclubs, wine stores to cafés, there aren’t too many aspects of hospitality I haven’t dived into over the years

How would you describe the philosophy and focus of the Saint Peter wine list, and how does it complement the restaurant’s seafood-driven menu?

The most important thing for the Saint Peter beverage offering – especially since we opened the hotel rooms – is to ensure a sense of place. Do our products match our ethos of thoughtful stewardship and responsible sourcing? Do they tell a story of the people who make it, and the place that they come from? And most importantly – are they exceptionally delicious?

What’s your approach to sparkling wine on a restaurant list? Do you see it playing a bigger role at the table beyond an aperitif?

Great sparkling wine is a great wine first and foremost; a great sparkling wine second. If the base of your wine isn’t great, if you don’t pay attention in the vineyard or if you’re too heavy-handed in the winery, the bubbles won’t hide that. Like any great wine, having an excellent meal alongside it will enhance the experience. Great sparkling wine alongside a grilled fish, a plate of hard cheese or a couple of oysters is always a cracking time 

What have you chosen to pair with Idée Fixe, and what inspired this pairing?

Idée Fixe wines, both the Blanc de Blancs & the Rosé, are incredibly versatile at the dinner table. They have the body and the flavour intensity to stand up to bold flavours that traditionally one would avoid when pairing food with sparkling wine; they also have the lightness and the spritz to contrast with richer dishes and textures. 

I love to pair the Idée Fixe Blanc de Blancs (and the Rosé, tbh) with one of our signature dishes, our Salt & Vinegar Fish with bread & butter. The fish fillet (typically blue mackerel, king george whiting or garfish) is cured in flake salt and then gently pickled in champagne vinegar. We serve it swimming in olive oil, a savoury Gordal olive brine and a fermented, umami-forward fish sauce made from all of the other parts of the fish – the heads, tails, bones etc (clarified, ofc). This is served alongside fresh bread & butter. The leesy, salty bready flavours in the Idée Fixe complements the sourdough and the brightness of the wine helps to cut through the olive oil and butter. There’s little I want to eat more with great sparkling wine than pickled fish, bread and butter

Do you have any go-to principles or advice for pairing wine and food successfully?

Texture is super important and often overlooked, particularly with sparkling wine. Before you taste the wine, before you perceive flavours, you feel the impact of the texture. As an example, sparkling wine is (un)surprisingly excellent with ingredients that have bubbles in it – whether its fresh sourdough, rice (think of the air pockets between the grains of rice in sushi, for example) or a butter sauce that’s been buzzed with a stick blender first to lighten it up

In your opinion, is there such a thing as a “perfect” pairing—or is it more about context, mood, and the guest?

My opinion is that most things go with most things; you’d be hard pressed to find much that wouldn’t go with a great Chardonnay from Margaret River, or a great Pinot Noir from Volnay, for example. Having said that, in terms of ‘perfect pairings’ never underestimate the importance of the vibe. A freezing cold beer with a bowl of spicy noodles in a gutter in Hanoi will give just as much pleasure as a glass of vintage Sauternes with foie gras in an old castle in France

You recently visited Margaret River. What were your first impressions, and do you have any insider tips for someone visiting for the first time?

Wow, where do I start. A Guinness at Settlers Tavern. A peppered steak pie from Dunsborough Bakery. A jug of Swan Draught at the Augusta Hotel, in the sunshine overlooking the river, with salt & pepper calamari and wedges with sweet chilli sour cream. Don’t forget to pack a towel because the beaches are insane – and if you’re going in spring, don’t forget the antihistamines!

SAINT PETER is located at 161 Underwood Street, Paddington, NSW.

For bookings and more, visit saintpeter.com.au or @saintpeterpaddo